Not really. Portocomaro has been absolutely wonderful, but it is time to get moving again. I will forever remember and cherish the memories and the people...good times.

Liz is all better. Here’s to antibiotics they are extremely cheap ($5) here, and you don’t even need a prescription.

We’ve built a great shelf and bird house out of scrap wood using substandard tools and a lot of gumption. It should hold up for years to come. If it's not used as firewood. 

We’ve taken a couple winery tours and tastings where we have gotten the contact information for the American importers. In the Piedmont region, the three most prominent grape species are Barbera, Ruche, and Griniolino; which most of the wine of the region comes from.

Had a typical Peidmontese meal; complete with four plates of antipasta, one plate of pasta, and one meat plate. We still had at least two plates to go before dessert, but we couldn’t eat any more.

We’ve met our replacements. Rob and Polly…a couple Brits who have just begun a two year trip of vagabonding, hitchhiking, and Wwoofing with no real plan to speak of. Sounds like us...but with a British accent. Cherio!

So, now we are back on the train again. En route to Corniglia, one of the five villages which make up Cinque Terre. We are going to spend a couple of days there, one of which Is my 33rd birthday. Hopefully the weather will be as hot/nice as it has been in Portacomaro these past couple weeks and we can go swimming in the Mediterranean.

After a much deserved vacation of hiking and swimming in Cinque Terre we are off to explore the timelessness of Venetian canals, followed shortly by Florence, then to Tuscany to do another Wwoofing site. We’ll be sure to let you know how it went and have loads of pictures to share.

As you may have figured out, this post is a little dated. Due to time and internet access constraints, we cannot always update when we want. By the time that I send this I have already had an astounding birthday in paradise and we are just getting ready to leave Venice. We will update again as soon as we can. Our plan is to camp one night outside Venice then go to our next Wwoofing site. Talk at ya soon.

I think WWOOFing might be the only way I travel from now on, for multiple reasons actually. The most important to me though, were the relationships built over the last month.

It’s been wonderful getting to know Chiara and David, spending 2-3 hours every night sharing stories and learning about Italian culture, all while eating delicious food prepared by Chiara. I would never have had the chance to learn about how difficult it can be to have a small business in Italy, how the mafia is still a huge problem, how to cook traditional Piemontese food, or ride a horse! Sure, it wasn’t always easy. There were times when things got a little frustrating, but we worked through it together and learned a bit about ourselves in the process.

I was talking with Rob, one of the new WWOOFers that will be working at Asti Sport, and we started to discuss how difficult but rewarding it can be talking with someone who doesn’t speak the same language. Let me explain… When we first met Chiara, she kept apologizing for her “poor English” and she warned us that her husband’s vocabulary was even worse. But after a few days, we really got into a rhythm of what David’s phrases meant, and eventually were able to communicate rather easily. My favorite was when he’d say something like, “Contrary to fast,” when he wanted to say “slow”. Or when describing anything that he didn’t like, he’d say, “A bastard inside,” with a fantastic Italian accent. Kevin and I were trying to learn a bit of Italian, but let’s face it, learning a language is really hard. And the progress that both of them made with their English while we were there was remarkable.

This morning I felt like I was saying goodbye to family, not just a few people that we worked for. Just like when I say goodbye to my mom, both Chiara and I teared up a bit as we parted ways. A huge thank you Chiara, David, Samir and Oliver for sharing your life with us and giving us the opportunity to learn so many new things. Keep in touch, and we’ll do the same.

I could get used to farm life. It’s a slower pace, a lot of manual labor, and the rewards although not always immediate are tangible.  David and Chiara are relatively new to the farming game. They have only had their farm for about 4 years. And I think that what they have accomplished in four short years is remarkable.They have constructed a small house, a stable with 20 stalls, a riding arena and paddock. two storage barns, and have fenced most of their property so that the animals can remain "free" outside.    On the other hoof…they still have a long way to go.

One of the main tasks that we have on this farm is to organize the clutter to make way for new animals and a vegetable garden. Luckily, we are both exceedingly good at organization. We have helped to consolidate a large majority of the various implements and building materials. We burned a lot of excess wood and debris, and in the process have been firing some of Liz’s pottery. We have also started construction on various shelving and bird houses with the left over wood (of which there is a lot), at Chiara's request.

It seems that about 90% of the soil around here is 100% clay. Which is good for experimenting with pinch pots and what not, but not too good for agriculture. Liz is excited because she can practice with the yellow. ocre-colored clay...she actually taught a class for the local elementary school about clay and how to make clay pendants, bowls, etc. for a unit on prehistoric cultures (But that is another post).  Anyway, the soil sucks here for growing anything. Fortunately, we have a ready supply of horse and cow manure with which to ameliorate the soil. Unfortunately, we are waiting on a neighbor's rototiller (in the shop) before we can mix the soil.

Once we get the soil mixed, the plan is to plant dozens of trees around the property and start a vegetable/herb garden. Hopefully we will get to see this happen before we leave. Until then we still have plenty to do, clearing space for the proposed pigs, chickens, and sheep that they want to start raising.

David knows everything about raising horses, and within the past 2 years has taken an interest in raising cows…with good results. But as far as anything having to do with cultivation or small animal husbandry, Chiara wants to be in charge of that. And sometimes there are heated Italian debates between the two as to what the future of the farm will be.  As most of these debates are during meals, we are usually present for most…which can be awkward. But it’s necessary, I guess, if they want to grow this farm. We will leave in a short while, and really have no vested interest in this land; but they are in it for the long haul. I just hope that we can help with whatever we can while we are here.

This has been an invaluable experience. One day I hope that we can use what we’ve learned here on our own hobby farm. And with Chiara’s cooking and the family’s jovial and welcoming nature, it will be hard to leave. Farm-life from Portacomaro!

What else have we been doing?

That's all for now...stay tuned for more. See ya!

Hi All,

We have come to where the proverbial rubber meets the road. I am writing this to ask for assistance from our family and friends back home.

As most of you know, Cosmo, Liz’s dog was left under the care and supervision of my Aunt (Lu) and Uncle (Mike). For this we offer eternal gratitude. Unfortunately, Cos has recently started vying for dominance with the eldest dog, Buddy. Well, Buddy is a bit older and is having trouble defending his alpha dog status. This is where the problem arises. Cosmo can no longer stay at Mike and Lu’s due to his growing aggressiveness toward poor Buddy. Thankfully, they have given us a little time.

We have until the end of June, sooner if possible, to find a new temporary home for the Cos for the remainder of the summer.  We realize that this is a LOT to ask. And it would be easier to coordinate if we were not travelling and had our phones. However, as they say, it is what it is.

We appreciate the offers that some have given. But at this point we need something more concrete and need to think about what is best for all parties.  We also understand if you cannot commit to something like this. It would be a significant shift in lifestyle for most people. Although it is summer, and it’s easier to be outside and active with a furry companion, it is also this reason that people summer schedules fill up.

 Cosmo is a high energy dog. He will need exercise. This means taking him to the park/lake and throwing his ball (he can do this forever), taking him on walks (at least an hour),  running or biking with him, or really any kind of physical activity for a couple hours every other day. A big yard might suffice.  I know that this seems a lot, but this way he is much calmer at home. He is a very loving and affectionate dog once he gets to know you, and will probably become your second shadow once you play with him a couple times.  Because of the dominance issues that we have been seeing at my Mike and Lu’s, I would not suggest bringing him into a home with another alpha male, as there might be some aggressiveness after a while. Other than that he is a wonderful dog to have around…it will be hard to let him go by the end.

So, if you think that you could possibly help, or know someone who might be interested and able please contact us using our email addresses (under contact us). Do not respond via the blog…we will update the blog when/if we find a new home.

 We will entertain any ideas or assistance that you may have. And again, we are under some time constraints so contact us as soon as possible if you may be able to help for all or part of the summer. We may even be able to have a trial basis, since if we can’t find a place we are coming home anyways…so if you think that you could help prolong our trip by giving Cos a good home, we may actually get to a place where we use mosquito nets and filter water. So, I guess if we don’t hear from people soon, this blog is going to get pretty boring.

I'm not trying to guilt trip anybody, we are just not ready to stop yet. I'm tired...I will put a happy, or at least entertaining post up tomorrow.

Hello friends and family,

This is one of those posts that I hoped I would never have to write.

Some of you may have met my wonderful puppy Cosmo. If you haven’t, I’m sure you’ve heard me talking about him… nonstop. While planning this trip, the only problem I really ran into was trying to find a place for him to stay while I was away. Fortunately, Kevin’s Aunt and Uncle were gracious enough to bring him into their lives and allow him to join their family for the summer. Unfortunately, the situation isn’t working out.

Cosmo is having a hard time learning how to “share”. When I was back at home, he had 100% of my attention. Now, he has to share between two kids, two dogs, and three cats. This has caused some tension between he and the eldest alpha male, Buddy. He has shown no aggression towards any of the humans, but he and Buddy do not get along. Hence, we need to find someplace else for him to stay for the rest of the summer.

If I’m being perfectly honest about my baby Cosmo – he can be a handful. He’s part Black Lab and part Whippet, so he’s got a lot of energy and loves to run (not run away, just run around). I would say he needs to run around for at least 30-45 minutes every day, the more the better. He loves to play with the Chuck-It, so you don’t actually have to run with him... just be willing to throw a ball for a bit of time. Other than his high-energy, he is a wonderful dog. He loves to cuddle, prances around like a deer, and will make you laugh on a daily basis.

So, here’s the deal. We’re looking for someone to watch Cos until September when we return. It would really be helping us out a lot, and essentially allow us to continue this blog. If need be, I (we) will end the trip early and come home for Cos.

Any interested parties can comment or contact us in an email.

Thanks,

Liz

We've been woofing for a little less than two weeks now and here's what we've been up to...

Our evenings are spent playing in the sand and learning Italian words with the boys.

Ciao ciao everyone! After almost a week going internet-free, spending the majority of our time deconstructing sheds, planting native shrubs, tending to the horses and eating lots and lots of pasta, we're finally back!

Worldwide Opportunites on Organic Farms (WWOOF) has been incredible so far. We're staying with a family of four in the tiny village of Portacomaro. Together, David, Chiara, Samir (6) and Oliver (2) have created an amazing farm where they keep about 20 horses, or Cavalli as it is said in Italiano, and are slowly creating a little chunck of heaven where they teach members of the community to ride.

Since we've been stationary for a bit, its been quite a dramatic difference to our previous travels. We eat lunch and dinner together as a family, and I can't begin to describe how amazing the food is here. Chiara is an incredible cook - using the simplest recipes, but all fresh ingredients and herbs. We eat pasta everyday for lunch (usually accompanied with fresh salad and bread), then dinner is when we eat the meat. They also have cows on the farm strictly for eating, so we've had beef the majority of our time here, though last night we had rabbit, a first for me. Hopefully over the next few weeks, I will be able to learn as much as possible from Chiara and bring some traditional Piemonte recipes home with me.

I'll go more into what we're actually doing on the farm in another post, but just wanted to let everyone know that we're still around, very well fed, and enjoying a brand-new type of travel.

Buono notte!

I’m sure it’s pretty obvious to most people already, but when you carry around a limited number of clothes and you’re constantly walking around cities, you tend to get a little stinky. Kevin and I are trying to avoid this by periodically washing our clothes at an actual laundry mat instead of just in the sink of whatever hotel we’re staying in.

Our most recent experience was in Bordeaux on last Monday, and I can’t say it was one of our best. There was a washing facility not too far away from our hotel, so we thought we could finish our “chores” before the vineyard tour we signed up for at 1:30PM. When we walked in, the first thing I noticed was the severe smell of cigarettes, so I thought, “Great, we’ll wash our clothes only to have them smell like an ashtray afterward.” If only that were the worst part of the situation.

There was only one seating area in relatively small place, and a very stinky, somewhat scary looking bum was sitting there. Rather than stay there, standing for a hour washing our clothes go around and around, we decided to run to the post and run and grab croissants across the road. Kevin mentioned how he was worried the bum would steal our clothes, I was just worried about the smell. When we returned, the stench was much, much worse.  It smelled like a port-o-potty, but without the pleasant chemical smell of sanitizer. At that point, we should have grabbed our clothes and just air dried them in the hotel, but we put our clothes in the one of two dryers. It worked for about 30 seconds, then nothing. Kev put a few more coins in – nothing. We checked the seams, played with the dials, but absolutely nothing we could do would get the machine to start up again. Kevin was livid. He had a few choice words for the situation, which he yelled toward the machine, and I couldn’t figure out why he was so upset. We only wasted 2 euro on the machine, no big deal. Then it dawned on me. Our clean clothes were going to have to go into the dryer that the bum was using.

Now don’t get me wrong, I was a bit upset when we first got in there and it smelled of poop, but I couldn’t hold it against him – he was trying to clean up, he was washing his clothes! But that was before I realized that he pooped his pants while we were standing waiting for the dryer. I kid you not, he got up from the bench, and left a puddle of poop, and with each step, another puddle was left behind. I will spare you some of the more grotesque details, but to give you an idea, I was gagging for the next 20 minutes while we waited for our clothes to finally dry.

I am happy to report that Kevin and I can look back at this now and laugh*, and neither of us have seen any adverse effects of the bum dryer.


*Just kidding, I showed Kevin this post before I put it on the website – he’s still upset.

Well folks,

It seems that I haven’t been in contact for quite some time now.  I’ll try and make up for it…

I think that Liz gave you a pretty comprehensive idea of how Paris was. It was both wonderful and trying at the same time.  But, in hindsight, I would say that it was a definitive learning experience. Plus, compared to some of the countries that we will be visiting in the near future, Paris, as well as the rest of France, will be a walk in the park…at least one of us speaks the language in France (but Liz is a quick learner).

That being said; France for the most part is fairly bass-ackwards for travelers. Sure, there is a TON to see. And the food for the most part is good, if not a little too expensive. But, I don’t know how anybody relies on public transportation to go anywhere. As was mentioned before, you need a reservation to travel anywhere by train, even if it’s to the next town over. We are using our Eurail pass, so we don’t have to pay for any tickets, but for some reason we still have to pay for reservations; which, depending on where one wants to go can be 20E per person.  I think for shorter trips most French people tempt fate and pray that don’t check tickets. But for longer trips there is no getting around it. And if it is a high volume destination then one should book a week in advance. This means standing in line up to an hour to get a reservation which may or may not exist.

Moreover, there is no guarantee that a train will be on time, or not be cancelled last minute. It seems that this is normalcy because no one seems to bat an eye except for the “stupid Americans” that actually think that train schedules should work in a developed nation…I mean this isn’t Cameroon anymore, these guys built half the Chunnel. Needless to say that this happened to us, and we were stuck in Libourne (a town that we though was going to be something, but then turned out to be nothing) for the better part of a day. We wanted to go take a wine tour at the close by St. Emillion which is surrounded by historical vineyards. Unfortunately, when we got to Libourne our transfer to St. Emillion was delayed, then cancelled. Sigh. Oh well, we salvaged the night with Bordeaux’s version of Night at the Museums, where all of Bordeaux’s museums were free admission. But I think Liz has filled you in on all of this…sorry for the redundancy.

Anyway, France is a great place to visit, but I would rent a car if you are going to see anything outside of Paris. Alright…enough bitchin’.

We had a very good time in Bordeaux. If the weather would have cooperated, it would have been parfait. The “very” is mainly due to the people that we met and conversed with. Not only have we made some connections on Couchsurfing, but we also made some friends and memories which we will cherish. Thanks to all who made our stay in Bordeaux so wonderful…namely Camille and her family.

5-22-12

So now we are en route to Italy where we will be spending the night with another couchsurfer in Asti. Then tomorrow morning we are off to Portacomaro where we will be meeting the family that we will be staying with while WWOOFing. I am hopeful and optimistic as we embark on our adventures in cultivation. We have only had a few brief correspondence with our host family, so there are a lot of questions that have yet to be answered. All I know is that there should be a lot of horses. It should be fun!  We will let you know when they run us out of town…

5-30-12
Well they haven't run us out of town yet. In fact, we are having a wonderful time. The family (David, Chiara, and their two boys Samir and Oliver) is great and the country-side is beautiful. Liz has some more pending updates. Just wnated to let everyone know that we are still alive.  Ciao Tutti! 

This is the last few hours of our last night in Bordeaux, and France. Tomorrow we travel to Italy to start working on an organic farm. There should be internet access somewhere in the area...after all we contacted the family by internet. But, I am not sure if we will actually have it in the place that we are staying. Therefore, there might be a longer period of time than some of you are used to between posts. Don't worry, we are still living and writing. We will just upload all of them at once when we next have internet access.

Also, I realize that lately Liz has been carrying the blog. I will catch up as soon as I can.:)

Take care and talk at you soon.

K