Ciao ciao everyone! After almost a week going internet-free, spending the majority of our time deconstructing sheds, planting native shrubs, tending to the horses and eating lots and lots of pasta, we're finally back!

Worldwide Opportunites on Organic Farms (WWOOF) has been incredible so far. We're staying with a family of four in the tiny village of Portacomaro. Together, David, Chiara, Samir (6) and Oliver (2) have created an amazing farm where they keep about 20 horses, or Cavalli as it is said in Italiano, and are slowly creating a little chunck of heaven where they teach members of the community to ride.

Since we've been stationary for a bit, its been quite a dramatic difference to our previous travels. We eat lunch and dinner together as a family, and I can't begin to describe how amazing the food is here. Chiara is an incredible cook - using the simplest recipes, but all fresh ingredients and herbs. We eat pasta everyday for lunch (usually accompanied with fresh salad and bread), then dinner is when we eat the meat. They also have cows on the farm strictly for eating, so we've had beef the majority of our time here, though last night we had rabbit, a first for me. Hopefully over the next few weeks, I will be able to learn as much as possible from Chiara and bring some traditional Piemonte recipes home with me.

I'll go more into what we're actually doing on the farm in another post, but just wanted to let everyone know that we're still around, very well fed, and enjoying a brand-new type of travel.

Buono notte!

I’m sure it’s pretty obvious to most people already, but when you carry around a limited number of clothes and you’re constantly walking around cities, you tend to get a little stinky. Kevin and I are trying to avoid this by periodically washing our clothes at an actual laundry mat instead of just in the sink of whatever hotel we’re staying in.

Our most recent experience was in Bordeaux on last Monday, and I can’t say it was one of our best. There was a washing facility not too far away from our hotel, so we thought we could finish our “chores” before the vineyard tour we signed up for at 1:30PM. When we walked in, the first thing I noticed was the severe smell of cigarettes, so I thought, “Great, we’ll wash our clothes only to have them smell like an ashtray afterward.” If only that were the worst part of the situation.

There was only one seating area in relatively small place, and a very stinky, somewhat scary looking bum was sitting there. Rather than stay there, standing for a hour washing our clothes go around and around, we decided to run to the post and run and grab croissants across the road. Kevin mentioned how he was worried the bum would steal our clothes, I was just worried about the smell. When we returned, the stench was much, much worse.  It smelled like a port-o-potty, but without the pleasant chemical smell of sanitizer. At that point, we should have grabbed our clothes and just air dried them in the hotel, but we put our clothes in the one of two dryers. It worked for about 30 seconds, then nothing. Kev put a few more coins in – nothing. We checked the seams, played with the dials, but absolutely nothing we could do would get the machine to start up again. Kevin was livid. He had a few choice words for the situation, which he yelled toward the machine, and I couldn’t figure out why he was so upset. We only wasted 2 euro on the machine, no big deal. Then it dawned on me. Our clean clothes were going to have to go into the dryer that the bum was using.

Now don’t get me wrong, I was a bit upset when we first got in there and it smelled of poop, but I couldn’t hold it against him – he was trying to clean up, he was washing his clothes! But that was before I realized that he pooped his pants while we were standing waiting for the dryer. I kid you not, he got up from the bench, and left a puddle of poop, and with each step, another puddle was left behind. I will spare you some of the more grotesque details, but to give you an idea, I was gagging for the next 20 minutes while we waited for our clothes to finally dry.

I am happy to report that Kevin and I can look back at this now and laugh*, and neither of us have seen any adverse effects of the bum dryer.


*Just kidding, I showed Kevin this post before I put it on the website – he’s still upset.

Well folks,

It seems that I haven’t been in contact for quite some time now.  I’ll try and make up for it…

I think that Liz gave you a pretty comprehensive idea of how Paris was. It was both wonderful and trying at the same time.  But, in hindsight, I would say that it was a definitive learning experience. Plus, compared to some of the countries that we will be visiting in the near future, Paris, as well as the rest of France, will be a walk in the park…at least one of us speaks the language in France (but Liz is a quick learner).

That being said; France for the most part is fairly bass-ackwards for travelers. Sure, there is a TON to see. And the food for the most part is good, if not a little too expensive. But, I don’t know how anybody relies on public transportation to go anywhere. As was mentioned before, you need a reservation to travel anywhere by train, even if it’s to the next town over. We are using our Eurail pass, so we don’t have to pay for any tickets, but for some reason we still have to pay for reservations; which, depending on where one wants to go can be 20E per person.  I think for shorter trips most French people tempt fate and pray that don’t check tickets. But for longer trips there is no getting around it. And if it is a high volume destination then one should book a week in advance. This means standing in line up to an hour to get a reservation which may or may not exist.

Moreover, there is no guarantee that a train will be on time, or not be cancelled last minute. It seems that this is normalcy because no one seems to bat an eye except for the “stupid Americans” that actually think that train schedules should work in a developed nation…I mean this isn’t Cameroon anymore, these guys built half the Chunnel. Needless to say that this happened to us, and we were stuck in Libourne (a town that we though was going to be something, but then turned out to be nothing) for the better part of a day. We wanted to go take a wine tour at the close by St. Emillion which is surrounded by historical vineyards. Unfortunately, when we got to Libourne our transfer to St. Emillion was delayed, then cancelled. Sigh. Oh well, we salvaged the night with Bordeaux’s version of Night at the Museums, where all of Bordeaux’s museums were free admission. But I think Liz has filled you in on all of this…sorry for the redundancy.

Anyway, France is a great place to visit, but I would rent a car if you are going to see anything outside of Paris. Alright…enough bitchin’.

We had a very good time in Bordeaux. If the weather would have cooperated, it would have been parfait. The “very” is mainly due to the people that we met and conversed with. Not only have we made some connections on Couchsurfing, but we also made some friends and memories which we will cherish. Thanks to all who made our stay in Bordeaux so wonderful…namely Camille and her family.

5-22-12

So now we are en route to Italy where we will be spending the night with another couchsurfer in Asti. Then tomorrow morning we are off to Portacomaro where we will be meeting the family that we will be staying with while WWOOFing. I am hopeful and optimistic as we embark on our adventures in cultivation. We have only had a few brief correspondence with our host family, so there are a lot of questions that have yet to be answered. All I know is that there should be a lot of horses. It should be fun!  We will let you know when they run us out of town…

5-30-12
Well they haven't run us out of town yet. In fact, we are having a wonderful time. The family (David, Chiara, and their two boys Samir and Oliver) is great and the country-side is beautiful. Liz has some more pending updates. Just wnated to let everyone know that we are still alive.  Ciao Tutti! 

This is the last few hours of our last night in Bordeaux, and France. Tomorrow we travel to Italy to start working on an organic farm. There should be internet access somewhere in the area...after all we contacted the family by internet. But, I am not sure if we will actually have it in the place that we are staying. Therefore, there might be a longer period of time than some of you are used to between posts. Don't worry, we are still living and writing. We will just upload all of them at once when we next have internet access.

Also, I realize that lately Liz has been carrying the blog. I will catch up as soon as I can.:)

Take care and talk at you soon.

K

A few days later, we’re in Bordeaux and I feel like it’s worlds away from Paris. We’ve been more proactive about finding people on Couchsurfing, which I feel is part of the reason we’ve enjoyed our time here so much.

Our first experience was on Thursday night. We walked around most of the day – saw the city center that is now all declared a UNESCO heritage site – then went back to the hotel and started to wind down after a long day. I was on the CS website and saw that there was a “Thirsty Thursday” event that night, starting at 8:30 at a bar that was walking distance from our room. What do we have to lose? Worst case scenario, we have a glass of wine and leave after 30 minutes of awkward silence. Best case scenario, we meet some great people that could teach us a bit about the city we’re in. We get there and see a large group in the back of the bar, assuming that they’re couch surfers. Kevin and I had no idea how to approach the situation – “Do we just walk up and announce our names? Do we wait until there’s an open chair…?” Luckily someone came up to the bar and I asked if they were part of CS. He made room for us at the end of the table and the night began. We were lucky enough to sit next to two incredible women, TJ and Maela, both who currently live in Bordeaux. We had a full night of wonderful conversation, learning about French culture and sharing travel stories. We left the night content and very happy to have been “proactive” about meeting people in the region.

The second experience was tonight, and I’m writing this just minutes after arriving back to the hotel from our night out. Let’s go back a few days - Kevin had received an email from Camille welcoming us to stay with her when we were in Bordeaux. We had already reserved our hotel for our stay, so it didn’t work to actually “couch surf” but she did invite us over to her parents’ house tonight for dinner. At first we were uncertain about it; did her parents actually want to have a few vagabonds invade their house for an evening? But whatever, let’s go for it. Again, what do we have to lose?

Tonight. Was. Amazing. I am blown away by the hospitality shown to us by Chantel, Eric and Camille (and her brother J). We had a wonderful evening full of absorbing conversation, fantastic French food and delicious wine. Their home was beautiful, to say the least. And as much as I love talking to Kevin, it was wonderful to be able to talk to someone actually from the country and talk about the differences between the United States. Did you know that going to college is basically free in France? We’re talking less than 500 euro for a full year. And high school is actually a challenge for students here (i.e. they have expectations far surmounting those in the US). Camille did a study abroad for her senior year in California and said that she never had to study for a test and passed easily. The math she was learning was equivalent to that of an eighth grader. The night satiated our desire for a home-cooked meal, gave us a deeper understanding of the culture, and for me, saved my experience here in France. Honestly, after another failed day in Libourne (story to come later), I was cursing our decision to come to France. But tonight really changed my view on the country – Merci beaucoup Chantel, Eric and Camille!!!

A few things that I’m going to take away from France – you can’t begin to learn everything about the culture by reading it in a book, or even by walking the streets of the city. The people are what make a place wonderful. I can’t thank TJ, Maela, Chantel, Eric or Camille enough for giving us such a warm welcome into their city and home. It’s been absolutely wonderful spending time with you and I hope that one day we can return the favor.

Liz

Alright. I was a little negative in the last post. So here's a few of the beautiful things that we saw over the last seven days. Enjoy!

Bonne nuit!

Liz

Ahh Paris. Everyone has an idea of what the city is all about, whether it be the stereotypical beret wearing, baguette eating, cigarette smoking monsieur or madam, or just know it for the rich history and beautiful sights it has to offer – the Louvre, Eiffel Tour, Notre Dame… the list goes on and on.

But there’s quite a bit that people don’t talk about when discussing the City of Light, so let’s begin.

Did you know that in Paris, dogs poop on the sidewalk and their owners don’t find it necessary to pick it up? Then, when two travelling Minnesotans walk through the streets for the first time, they both step in said poop. It’s everywhere. And you can smell it everywhere. Walking down the Avenue des Champs Elysees for the first time, “one of the most beautiful streets in the world,” you can’t look at the sights because you’re too busy looking at the ground for landmines. Luckily, we only had to clean our shoes once, but still – it’s disgusting.

Did you know that in Paris, when you reserve a hotel room, you should expect hidden fees, so a budget room then becomes extremely expensive? We spent a total of seven days in Paris, and stayed at two different hotels on opposite sides of the city. When we were planning, it turned out to be cheaper to stay in a private hotel room than it would have been to stay in a 12 bunk shared hostel, so we thought we’d be stupid not to go for it. When we first arrived at Hotel Saint Albert in the Batignolles district, we were met by a tiny Indian/Parisian man who clearly was not as enthusiastic as we were about life. “Rude” doesn’t really begin to describe his demeanor. Everything we said disgusted him for some reason, but we brushed it off – we’re in Paris! Nothing can ruin this! As we were paying, Kevin asked for the wireless internet password, only to discover that it’s not free, though it stated it was on the website we booked with. It was only 2 Euro a day, but still, it’s the principle of the matter.

 We went to the room – four flights up a small spiral staircase (which was also under construction), and found our “delightfully” small hotel room. Oh well – at least we have free breakfast and wireless internet. Here’s a trick we’ve discovered to make our dollar last longer. When you receive a complimentary breakfast, make a sandwich for the road – BAM! Instant lunch. But we weren’t able to do this at our first hotel because the breakfast was so minimal. Old croissants, raw eggs, and stale cereal. Joy. But it was free, so it was good enough. Fast forward four days when we finally can check out of the hotel. The expectation was to just drop off the key and leave. We thanked the man at the counter, to which he replies, “Du rien, but you still have a bill to settle.” Say whaaaa? We paid for the room, and regrettably paid for internet – what else? You know that awful breakfast I mentioned earlier? Turns out that was TEN EUROS PER PERSON, PER DAY. I was livid, LIVID. This may come as a surprise to some of you, but I am usually not very vocal about my anger, at least when it comes to dealing with strangers. Not this time, shaking my head, the only word I could find was “no” over and over again. I tried to explain how it said on the website we booked with how it said free breakfast and free internet, both of which they’re charging us for?? No way. For those of you who don’t know the conversion, 10 euro is about $13.50. So we paid $13.50 each for a few pieces of stale bread, muddy coffee and a packet of jam, whereas if I were in the States, I could have gotten TWO Grand Slam breakfasts at Denny’s. Apparently there was no arguing with this man, so we decided to pay the bill and get the hell out of there, never to speak of it again.

Did you know that when you leave one terrible hotel in Paris, you show up at an even worse hotel next? Our next place was on the East side of the city, closer to the Latin Quarter and Notre Dame. Again, it was pretty cheap considering, but at least it can’t be worse that the first place. Wrong, very very wrong. I’ll spare all the details, but here’s a brief list of the things we experienced at Hotel Saint Sebastian: dead/decomposing pigeon greeting us on the windowsill across from ours, hair all over the pillows and sheets (questionable as to where on the body they were from), mold in the shower, hair on the toilet (not from one’s head), the strong smell of methane throughout the hotel, construction that starts at 7:30AM, Wifi in lobby only, and an obligatory breakfast consisting of ¼ a baguette and one croissant. Not my favorite.

Did you know that in Paris, the stereotype of Parisians being rude is actually true? We came in contact with many locals throughout our week in the city, but only came across two helpful and kind people. Everyone has an attitude, even when you’re trying to buy something from them. “You want to buy a sandwich from moi? And I have to give you change? Ughh how dare you.”

Last, but not least…

Did you know that in France, you have to pay to make a reservation for the train, even though you already spent over $1000 for your Eurail ticket? This has affected us two times now, first by getting a 40 Euro fine on the first train we took to get to Paris, then again as we tried to leave - We came to the station early, waiting in multiple lines for upwards of an hour, only to discover that there were no spots left on the train. We’d have to wait until 6:00PM tomorrow before we could get a seat to Bordeaux, something I was not about to do. Through a bit of finagling, we managed to secure a spot, standing in the bar car for the four hour-long train ride. Thankfully, being in the bar car also means the beer is only a few steps away.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed parts of Paris. The sights are beautiful, and the first day in the city is pretty magical. But then the magic wears off and you’re stuck in a dirty, expensive city. We clearly overstayed this time, but hopefully Bordeaux and Libourne will make up for France so far. Kevin will be publishing a much more positive post soon, I pulled the short straw and had to talk about the negatives…

As you may have noticed most of the blog posts are not posted on the same days that they are written. The below post was actually wiitten on the 10th, but because we don't actually have internet access on the trains we are forced to wait until we get accomodations with wifi before we send them out. I shouldn't matter because most of you probably aren't reading them as tehy come off the press anyway. So don't worry if you don't hear from us (you know who I'm talking to), we are fine and dandy and having  a great time. Happy Mother's Day!

Without further adieu...

Guten Tag Everyone!

We are currently on a train (again) bound for Paris…France. Of course it is a beautiful azure blue day; which always seems to be the case when we are travelling, not so much when we are sedentary.

We just spent a wonderfully relaxing 2 days in Konstanz Germany.  It’s right on the border of Switzerland, so yesterday we took a stroll, in the rain, to visit our Swiss neighbors. We stumbled upon this huge, old farm which today is mainly used for tourism and as a wildlife management area. We got caught in the rain for a while here, but there was plenty to take in, and not having a set schedule means not being in a hurry.

After touring this little corner of Switzerland, we nonchalantly meandered our way back over the border to Germany. We continued to take in the sights of Konstanz all the while looking for a place that sold pencils for an art project for Liz. Unfortunately, we were unsuccessful at finding a bleistift, but we did find a genuine Swiss chocolatier, which made Liz’s day all the same. After all that trekking, we found an Irish pub to have dinner (conveniently right under where we were staying) and pass the time talking to some foreign locals.

We then awoke this morning to a stupendous complimentary breakfast, made our accommodations for Paris, and went down to the water to feed some birds (which is becoming one of my favorite past-times) before our train departed. Now we are on route, going through some picturesque mountainous countryside. If everything goes according to plan we should be getting in to Paris around 6 o’clock tonight. Where I will send out this blog and begin our tour of gay Paris.

Au revoir pour le moment…A bientot.

K    

P.S. By now we've actually been in Paris for a few days...we'll update Paris when we organize what we've done thus far...stayed tuned.

Well, here we are on a train again. Seems to be the only time that I have time to just sit and think about what we are doing instead of doing it. We just left Munich this time, and are travelling to Konstanz, Germany; along the border of Switzerland. Thus far we have been couch surfing through Germany, tonight we are actually getting a room, so it will be nice not worrying about anyone else’s schedule. I short stay along the shores of Lake Konstanz to decompress and take it all in. Then we are back on the road to Paris, where hopefully we can scrounge up some sleeping arrangements for about a week. Then we are planning on spending some time to be determined in Libourne, a small town outside of Bordeaux; which is basically a commune of potters. But more on that in later posts…

Munich was supercalifragilisticexpialidocious! We stayed with Stefanie and her roommates Rosayna, Sara, and Gregor for the last four days. They were great…very accommodating. It kinda feels weird staying with strangers for extended periods of time without reciprocity. After a while one starts feeling like a mooch. Hopefully someday we can return the favor to all these wonderful people that we meet and stay with; or at least pay it forward.

Munich is such a splendid city, with so much history everywhere you look. As a rule, I generally enjoy more relaxed rural towns over big cities, but Munich, I feel, was an exception to this rule. We did so much in what seemed like over a week, but as it stands was only 4 days…Ach du lieber! Here’s a quick rundown of some of the places we saw, and things that we did:

-Marianplatz - The historic city center where the royal palace is situated along with dozens of museums, churches, fountains, and beer halls & gardens; not to mention the hundreds of shops, boutiques, restaurants, and huge Viktualienmarket. We spent quite a bit of time all turned around in this part of town. In fact, we found ourselves getting lost in most places in Munich. I was strange…when we thought we were going south, we were actually heading north, and vice versa. In no other town, yet, have we had this issue. If Munich’s this tough with a map, then Delhi’s going to be quite challenging.

-Church of St. Peter – This is located in the center of Marianplatz. We climbed and climbed (lost count of how many stairs) and were well rewarded for our efforts with a panoramic view of the entire city. We could even see the Alps in the far distance.

-English Gardens – This was just a massive park which would take days to walk completely. But in the center of the gardens is a Chinese pagoda surrounded by a huge biergarten. This is where we got our first beer in Munich. With hundreds of fellow beer aficionados and pretzels bigger than your head, it was truly a German experience. (Side note: I have had a beer every day that I have been in Germany…just one Mom;))

-Hofbrauhaus – While we are on the subject of beer. We also went to the world famous Hofbrauhaus for a liter of beer (each) and various sausages served with kraut. Can we get any more German?

-Surf break – On the south end of the English Gardens was what the local called ‘surf break’, which is where a stream, whether planned or not, makes a perfect wave for local surfers (yeah…in Munich) to hang ten and rip a curl.

-BMW Welt – It’s a showroom filled with the latest and greatest of what BMW has to offer. From cars, to motorcycles, to bikes, it is truly inspiring for anyone who appreciates German engineering. Even the building was a feat of engineering, plus it was right next to the old Olympic grounds and village. Taking all that in was a good way to spend a rainy day.

-Dachau - Our last day in Munich we took a day trip out to Dachau, which I learned was Germany’s very first concentration camp, and the model for all the rest to follow throughout the war. I can say that I am glad that we did, because it was a truly sobering and humbling experience. I felt physically and mentally drained after walking around the grounds and the museum they have set up there. We took an audio tour, so not only did we get the history of Hitler’s rise to power, the daily routine and torture that prisoners had to endure, and the plight of those not fortunate enough to survive their time at Dachau; but we also were able to hear first-hand accounts of survivors of the camp while we were seeing the actual bunk houses that they were packed in, and the saw the videos of the corpses packed on the trains and piled in front of the ovens. One of the strangest things for me was seeing the trees which lined the main road in front of each of the bunk houses. In the videos from “liberation day”, the trees were only 10 feet tall…but as we walked down the boulevard the same trees towered 40 feet over us. To think that those same trees that were around through all the suffering and atrocities are still thriving today. For some reason, that just stuck with me. I urge anyone who gets a chance to absolutely experience Dachau, and revel in the darkness that humans can actually manifest and endure…and how it’s all situated just outside a quiet and conventional town in the middle of Bavaria.

So…yeah, that was Munich.

Prost!

K     

P.S. Check out the flickr site for a lot more photos...it takes way too long to upload photos to the blog.

Sorry we haven't been posting as much. We've been busy drinking beer.

Prost!